Lighting setup

Butterfly lighting

Butterfly (or paramount) lighting is the beauty-industry standard: one soft key light placed directly in front of the subject and slightly above camera height, casting a small symmetrical shadow under the nose. Add a reflector under the chin and you have clamshell — the shot cosmetics campaigns are built on.

SubjectKey (above camera)Reflector / fill (clamshell)

Setup

  1. Centre the key. Beauty dish or 60cm+ softbox directly in front of the subject, positioned above the camera and angled down about 25°.
  2. Check the shadow. The nose shadow should be short and centred — if it disappears the light is too high; if it reaches the lip, lower it.
  3. Add clamshell fill. White reflector or second softbox at chest height pointing up to fill the eye sockets.
  4. Sharpen the exposure. f/5.6–f/8 for skin detail, ISO 100–200, 1/125–1/200.

When to use it

Beauty, cosmetics, product-in-hand, personal brand headshots where you want flattering, symmetrical light. Best on high, angular cheekbones. Skip for very square jaws — the flat front-light emphasises them.

FAQ

What is butterfly lighting?

A beauty-portrait pattern with the key light placed directly in front of and above the subject, casting a small symmetrical butterfly-shaped shadow under the nose.

Butterfly vs Rembrandt lighting?

Rembrandt is 45° to the side and creates drama; butterfly is centred above the camera and creates flattering beauty light. Butterfly favours symmetric faces and high cheekbones.

What is clamshell lighting?

Butterfly lighting plus a fill light or bright reflector directly below the subject's chin — the two sources form a clamshell around the face. Classic for beauty and cosmetics work.

What settings for butterfly lighting?

ISO 100–200, f/5.6–f/8 for sharp skin detail, 1/125–1/200 shutter. Meter the lit forehead — the shadow under the nose should be short, not deep.

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